Is it possible to make a compost pit along the fence. Judge forbids compost pit

Even at the design stage of a private house, you need to take into account many parameters and location rules of various buildings relative to the fence. Even on your own site, buildings cannot be located by you in any order. The rules for installing hedges and building structures inside the site are regulated by SNiP. In addition to the requirements of SNiP, local standards must be taken into account. It is desirable to fulfill the requirements and recommendations of SNiP, because non-compliance threatens with a fine or lawsuit from dissatisfied neighbors. And basically judgment rendered not in favor of the offender.

Fence Requirements

When arranging your site, information on the construction standards of the fence itself is important. For a private house, the requirements for the fence are as follows:

In other cases, there are practically no restrictions, the best materialsmeeting these requirements are:

The height and transparency of the adjacent fence can be agreed with the neighbors.
In this case, the consent is better to draw up in writing and assure. This will be an official document that can help, even if the neighbors change over time.

The distance from the fence to the house

It is very important at the design and construction stage to correctly position the house relative to the hedge. To find out at what distance to build a house to the fence, you need to use established standards.

Fence on the side of the roadway

A section of a hedge overlooking the road, the so-called red line, is usually equipped with a gate and a gate. The smallest distance from the fence to the house is set at 5 m. Violation of the construction boundaries in a smaller direction can cause problems when processing documents in the BTI, and does not comply with fire safety standards.

Required standards for the distance from the fence from the roadway

If the road is a passage, the distance can be reduced to 3 m.

In addition to the requirements of SNiP, there are fire safety standards that are sometimes difficult to fulfill:

• A house of stone, brick, concrete should be 6-8 m from the fence;
• Frame buildings with fireproof insulation - 10-12 m;
• Wooden house - 12-15 m.

A distance of 5 m has its advantages and is preferable from the practical side:

• The greater the distance from the road, the less noise will be heard from passing cars;
• Remoteness from exhaust gases and road dust;
• The ability to hide privacy from the views of casual passers-by.

The fence adjacent to the adjacent plot

Frequent conflicts and litigation are related to the location of buildings at a close distance from the boundary line. To avoid quarrels and misunderstandings with neighbors, you should carefully consider the existing requirements for.
The distance to neighboring houses is determined by the fire safety requirements:

• Non-combustible materials (stone, reinforced concrete, concrete) - 6 m;
• Non-combustible and slow-burning materials with wood floors - 8 m;
• Wood and frame structures - 10 m.

Often, conflicts with neighbors arise due to the shaded area during the construction of a multi-storey cottage. A tall house that is too close to a neighboring fence can cause poor growth of plants and trees. However, no one wants at the expense of their own interests to have a house in the middle of the plot.

In any case, on this issue it is better to contact specialists who, based on the situation, the size of the plot and other details, will offer optimal option. It is worth remembering that the minimum construction distance to an adjacent fence should be at least 3 m.
This arrangement is quite legal and rarely disputed by neighbors.

At what distance from the fence to build a bath

The location of the bath depends on many parameters: the material used for construction, the method of arranging the sewage system. According to sanitary and fire standards, the minimum distance from the bathhouse to the fence adjacent to the neighboring plot is 3 m.

This distance is due to the specificity of the building: the drained wastewater from the bath should not fall into the neighboring area. In addition, the bathhouse can cause a fire or a dense shadow in an adjacent area.

According to the rules, you can save half a meter by arranging a sewer drain and a drainage system, then a distance of 2.5 meters to the neighbors' hedges is considered acceptable. In addition to the boundary line, you need to take into account the distance to the next house - 8 m. It can be reduced to 6 m if the bath is built from materials of 1-2 combustibility classes (brick, concrete or stone).

In summer cottages and household plots, the problem of disposing of organic garbage - leaves, weeds, cleansing, sawdust and other things - often arises. Unlike inorganic waste (glass, plastic, etc.), all this can be used to produce clean, environmentally friendly fertilizer - compost. It turns out due to the biological process of decomposition under the influence of the vital activity of microorganisms. When compost is added to any soil, its quality characteristics are improved. Clay soils acquire a lighter, crumbly structure, while sandy soils retain moisture better. Consider how you can do compost pit and properly compost.

What can be put in a compost pit?

The following organic wastes are suitable for raw materials, which are conditionally divided into two large groups.

Brown waste

These include those that emit carbon.

Green waste

Green is considered to be waste emitting nitrogen.

• unsuitable for food and for processing berries, vegetables and fruits;
• sleeping tea and coffee cake;
• stubs and cleanings;
• shreds of wool;
• the remains of soups, cereals;
• eggshell;
• waste products of herbivores.

When laying a large amount of freshly cut grass, the compost preparation time will increase significantly. To speed up the process, lightly sprinkle small layers of grass with earth.

What can not be put?

Not all organics are suitable for laying on fertilizer.

Putting in a compost pit is not allowed:

• fresh excrement of domestic animals;
• loach, wheat grass;
• bones;
• leaves and other parts of plants affected by diseases, especially powdery mildew;
• plants treated with any chemicals;
• weeds in which the seeds have ripened;
• inorganic non-degradable waste (rubber, metal, glass, synthetic materials);
• tops of potatoes and tomatoes;
• fats, meat, dairy products;
• fresh and boiled eggs (except shell).

Potato and tomato tops, even healthy in appearance, can be a carrier of late blight. Subsequently, such fertilizer can infect all plants. In addition, this raw material is used for a very long time, the process will take about 5 years.

Everything that is not suitable for a compost pit, but should be thrown into the cesspool or taken out of the site as garbage.

Placement Requirements

The place on the site, as a rule, is chosen not in plain sight and that which is not a pity - where nothing grows due to the dense shade or soil infertility, somewhere behind the outbuildings, if any, in the backyards.

There are other important points.

• You need to understand that decaying raw materials will not exude the most pleasant smell, so you should think about the distance from the resting place, and about the neighbors. It would be nice to know the wind rose, so as not to place a bunch on the leeward side.
• It should be considered that free access is provided to the pit, as raw materials will be added and taken continuously throughout the season.
• It is advisable to choose a site on a flat surface, rather than in a pit, with a slight slope, in order to exclude stagnation of water, which interferes with the flow of oxygen, which means it stretches the process in time.
• A compost pile, although called a pit, should be above ground level. In this case, it will be better to warm up, it will be more convenient to loosen, water and generally maintain. Optimum parameters - 50 cm in depth, 1 m of obstacle above the ground. Higher walls will make it difficult to loosen and use compost.
• Exclude proximity to the source of drinking water (should be more than 25 m).
• The place should be in the shade or partial shade - sunlight slows down and dries the raw materials.
• Do not place the structure under the trees; they may become sick and die. Neighborhood with coniferous and other evergreen crops is not particularly recommended. The best neighbors are alder and birch.

Do not cover the bottom of the pit with film, slate or other moisture-proof material! It must penetrate from the soil without hindrance (this will be facilitated by deepening), otherwise everything will dry out. The bottom should remain earthen.

Design features

The ideal dimensions of the structure are usually indicated by the parameters of 1.5m x 2m, but in the end they are determined based on the amount of raw material that can be accumulated over 2 years. That is how much the process of preparing the finished substrate will go. Therefore, the ideal pit should be twice as large and two-section, designed for two cycles. In the first compartment, the finished bookmark will be laid, in the other over the next two years, fresh waste will be collected.

It is important to know that a small pit will warm up poorly as a result of decay, and this temperature may not be enough for the death of all pathogenic microflora and harmful spores. Experts determine the desired temperature at 60C and the optimum sizes stated above.

The top design must have a removable cover.

Design Options

You can arrange a compost pit in different ways, consider several common options.

Ordinary pit

The simplest construction that does not require additional costs and materials. A shallow pit is made, not more than half a meter deep, into which everything is folded according to the usual principle. The top is covered with black polyethylene. In order to make it easier to remove to add waste or use, on two sides it is rolled up onto a long stalk, which at the same time serves as a load. After each new bookmark, it is recommended to cover the waste with grass.

The option is simple, but difficult to call it effective and convenient. There will be difficulties with mixing, and such a heap will not be able to warm up enough, which means that in order for it to go over, it will take a longer time.

Two-section composter

The material for the manufacture can be boards, old slate, metal sheets, corrugated board, walls from plastic containers, bricks, etc. Optimum dimensions depending on the size of the site are 1.5-2 m wide and 2-3 m long. Depth should be made by 0.5-0.8 m. To fix the structure in the corners (having retreated to the necessary distance from the pit), pipe sections or large metal rods are dug that can withstand the weight of the compost heap. Wooden poles are not suitable for this purpose, since the process of decay will invariably affect them, and the structure will not last long due to the load.

Install the walls, not forgetting about the ventilation holes. A partition is installed in the middle, dividing the structure into two equal-sized compartments. Ready-made humus will be stored in one of them, and “young” waste will be stored in the second. It is better to make the lid hinged, on the hinges so that it does not move out and cover the contents tightly.

It is advisable to treat the supporting sections of metal pipes with an anti-corrosion bioprotective composition, and all wooden parts with protective impregnation, and then cover with two layers of acrylic paint.

The bottom, as already mentioned, cannot be covered with waterproof material, but straw, sawdust or wood bark will do just fine for this - they will provide the necessary air exchange and allow excess moisture to calmly leave.

If desired, you can make three departments. In the first there will be a ready-made substrate, in the second - a fully ripened ripening, and the third will be intended for laying new raw materials.

Single Section Composter

A simpler and quite compact option. You will have to take the finished product from below, for which you need to make a hole in one of the walls (and even better - from different sides), from which the ripened fertilizer will be selected. A distance of at least 30-40 cm should remain between the wall of the box and the ground. In this case, the substrate does not need to be mixed.

Concrete box

The construction, which will be done literally once and for all. Neat and reliable. To do this, dig a trench of the desired perimeter with a depth of 70-80 cm and make a formwork. Pour concrete into it, remove the formwork and remove the earth from the box to the desired depth. As a cover, you can use a wooden shield or film pressed by a metal mesh.

Ready-made plastic container

The modern market offers ready-made composters made of plastic. They have different sizes (within 400 -1000l), the necessary ventilation holes (make sure of this!) And the cover.

Their cost depends on the size, design and region and usually ranges from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.

Do not make too large compost pits, their contents will overheat, which is also undesirable, as this will lead to the death of the necessary microorganisms.

How to fill the compost pit?

Before laying the raw materials, clean the bottom of the pit from the turf and dig it well to a depth of 30 cm. This will provide conditions for the active life of the worms and the penetration of beneficial microorganisms, which will provide irreplaceable assistance in the processing of waste. In addition, excess water will go well into loose soil.

We begin the bookmark, alternating layers of wet and dry, brown and green raw materials. Their optimal ratio should be approximately as follows: 3 parts of brown waste per 1 part of green, and wet raw materials should be 5 times more than dry. All large should be broken or chopped.

Moisturize (not much) and close the lid.

Raw materials should not be tamped hard, but excessive looseness is also undesirable. Everything should be in moderation, especially humidity.

Putting compost in storage is not everything. Proper further steps will help speed up the process of decay and make fertilizer more nutritious. Follow these guidelines.

The following additives contribute to faster cooking.

• Overripe horse manure.
• Some types of plants (valerian, chamomile, dandelions, yarrow).
• Specially produced activating drugs, for example, Baikal EM-1, Compostin and Compostar.
• Stale (dried) bird droppings.
• Bean stalks.
• Bone and dolomite flour.
• Superphosphate and complex mineral fertilizers.

In the process of decaying the contents, the temperature inside rises; light steam can even rise from the heap. This is a normal occurrence, indicating that everything is going right.

Take the time and energy for this uncomplicated structure. This will also solve the problem of recycling a large part of organic waste, and will provide valuable fertilizer, the quality and environmental friendliness of which you will be absolutely sure.

Thinking about the construction of residential or utility buildings in private housing and garden partnerships, you need to familiarize yourself with the requirements of regulatory documentation: construction, environmental, sanitary and fire, regulating the location of objects capital construction relative to each other, neighbors, water sources and so on.

After obtaining the right to use land and the right to develop, the planning of the site structure begins. Housing construction farm buildings conducted for continuous operation and should provide:

• legalization of the structure;
• security of residence;
• convenience of living;
• safety and convenience of neighbors;
• unimpeded movement of people and vehicles in places common use;
• absence of negative impact on water sources, flora and fauna of the region.

Therefore, the layout of the site and the relative position of its elements must be well thought out and in accordance with the rules and regulations.

Building codes governing the location of buildings

With private development, you need to remember the "red line" (Clause 11, Article 1 of the Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation) - the border between your site and public areas, as well as other people's private land holdings. The border with the street when installing the fence must be observed literally. If the fence is located almost on the red line, then the gate and gate can only open inward. Sashes should not cross this conditional line, creating possible inconvenience to passers-by, cyclists, and drivers.

The main regulatory document determining the minimum distances to various economic and natural objects are mandatory (non-recommended) for the implementation of SNiP 30-02-97. According to them, the distances to the red line according to clause 6.6 must not be less than:

• residential building - 5 m from the street and 3 m from the passage (the street has a name, travel - no);
• outbuildings - 5 m both from the street and from the passage.

The fence is the boundary of your site, but this does not mean that you can place buildings and landings in the interior without restrictions. Crowns of trees should not block the sidewalks and overhang over an adjacent area, the sounds and smells of residential and household buildings should not interfere with passers-by and neighbors. The distance to the fence between the plots can be changed by agreement with the neighbors, certified by a notary.

Minimum normalized distances from the boundary between sections to objects (paragraph 6.7):

• residential building - 3.0 m;
• house, crib, pigsty, etc. - 4.0 m;
• greenhouse with top dressing with organic fertilizers - 4.0 m;
• garage, shed - 1.0 m (but the flow of water from the roof, according to clause 7.5, cannot be organized into a neighboring section - the roof slope is oriented to its section);
• bath, sauna, shower, toilet - 2.5 m (more in the section “Sanitary requirements”);
• tall trees - 4.0 m;
• medium-sized trees - 2.0 m;
• bushes - 1.0 m.

Distances from buildings are measured from the base or wall, if there are no decorative elements that protrude further than 500 mm. The distance between green spaces and the fence is measured to the conditional center of the trunk. An abundantly grown tree crown, with proper planting, cannot serve as a reason for claims from neighbors.

When planning a site, keep in mind that according to clause 6.13, the combined area of \u200b\u200bstructures (house, utility buildings, gazebo, garage), sites and paths cannot occupy more than 30% of the entire site. The rest of the space is a green zone, it is impossible to pave the entire yard.

Attention! Permanent fence can only be established after entering the boundaries of your site in the cadastral plan. For the period of legitimization, the role of the fence can be played by a net-chain stretched over the posts. The height of the permanent fence should not exceed 1.5 m, so as not to obscure the area of \u200b\u200bneighbors.

Maximum allowable building parameters of residential areas for low-rise individual construction

Building coefficient (K s) - the ratio of the area occupied by buildings and structures to the area of \u200b\u200bthe site.

Building density coefficient (K pz) is the ratio of the area of \u200b\u200ball floors of buildings and structures to the area of \u200b\u200bthe site.

Type of development	The size the land, m 2	Area of \u200b\u200ba residential building, m 2 total area	Building factor K s	Building density coefficient, K pz
AND	1200 and more	480	0,2	0,4
	1000	400	0,2	0,4
	800	320 (480)*	0,2 (0,3)*	0,4 (0,6)*
B	600	360	0,3	0,6
	500	300	0,3	0,6
	400	240	0,3	0,6
	300	240	0,4	0,8
IN	200	160	0,4	0,8
	100	100	0,5	1,0

AND - Manor buildings of rural-urban type with a plot size of 1000-1200 m 2 or more with a developed economic part.

B - development of an urban cottage type with a plot size of 400 to 800 m 2 and a cottage-blocked type (2-4 apartment semi-detached houses with plots of 300-400 m 2 with a minimum household part).

IN - Blocked type multi-unit buildings with plots 100–300 m 2 in size.

* In parentheses are the permissible parameters for cottage development.

Note:

1. With sizes land plots over 1200 m 2 the area of \u200b\u200ba residential building is not standardized for KZ ≤ 0.2 and KZZ ≤ 0.4.

2. When the size of the near-land plots is less than 100 m 2, the density of adjustment (Kpz) should not exceed 1.2. At the same time, KZ is not standardized in compliance with sanitary and hygienic and fire safety requirements.

Sanitary requirements for site planning

Sanitary standards when planning a site need to be given special attention, because they are aimed at maintaining people's health. SNiP 30-02-97 gives the minimum distances that must be maintained between buildings for sanitary reasons (paragraph 6.8).

• house and cellar - more than 12.0 m from the toilet, poultry house, small livestock housing;
• house and cellar - more than 8.0 m from the shower, sauna, bath;
• well - more than 8.0 m from the toilet, compost heap, septic tank.

When planning construction, make sure that these distances are respected in relation to buildings in adjacent areas.

If the premises for birds, goats, piglets has a common wall with a residential building, the entrance to it must be isolated, at a distance of not less than 7.0 m from the entrance door to the house (Section 6.9). To an adjacent section, the distance from such a block should be:

• from home - not less than 3.0 m;
• from a room with animals - not less than 4.0 m.

With garages adjacent to the house, the distance to the inter-site boundary is (paragraph 6.9):

• from home - more than 3.0 m;
• from the garage - more than 1.0 m.

Fire prevention rules for placing objects on a site

The rules for the conservation of water resources, if located close to your site, are regulated Water Code RF This applies primarily to the rules of the device for water supply and sanitation. In addition, restrictions relate to the use of the coastline for animal walking, recreation, dumping of land dumps, compost structures, plowing. Limited use of fertilizers on your site. You can’t even enclose a small area for a beach or footbridges for a boat / fishing - the entire coastline up to 20.0 m wide is the property of the state.

What threatens the failure to comply with the standards for the location of buildings

Initially, it’s better to build with all the norms in mind, so you won’t get problems with the authorities, neighbors, or, more seriously, with the health or safety of property. If you bought a plot, the buildings on which do not meet the requirements, then you need to act in all directions. As for sanitary standards - it is necessary to fix it, as for relations with neighbors - it is necessary to resolve all controversial issues, fixing the reached agreement in writing and notifying it. In many cases, good relations with neighbors are the key to trouble-free construction and legitimization.

If the buildings on the site were built during the operation of softer regulatory documents, then the issue is considered on the basis of their requirements.

Penalties for non-compliance with the rules for the location of buildings are determined by the Code of Administrative Offenses. These are various amounts of fines, and in addition, a refusal to put into operation will follow until the discrepancy is eliminated.

If you want to perform an extension to the house - it will have to be legalized in the district authorities. Unauthorized development, according to the Civil Code of the Russian Federation (Art. 222), should in most cases be demolished (except for those separately specified).

Attention! A complete order in the permits for your possessions will help, if desired, to sell the land and the house without any problems.

It would seem that it could be simpler: we select some place and time after time we throw out the remnants of food there, store the weathered weeds and other waste from the summer cottage. However, a good master tries to perform every, even simple business, wisely and to the maximum benefit.

Proper composting begins with choosing a place for the compost heap. Sanitary standards require to place it at a distance of not less than 25 meters from residential buildings and wells. Of course, this is not possible in small areas, and the requirements are indicated “with a margin”, but the separation of the house and compost should still be at least 15 meters. Otherwise, the smell of rot will fill your home from snow to snow. Another measure that reduces the spread of odor is to place the compost pile in a place protected from the wind.

Overall dimensions of the compost box according to the same requirements: width - 2 m, height - less than 1.5 m. Length can be arbitrary. With gradual filling, the heap will inevitably creep to the sides, so it is better to enclose the place for laying compost. If the volume of space necessary for composting is difficult to determine in advance, then the best option is to fence on three sides. To do this, tamp the ground on a selected site, draw a square with a side of 1.5-2 meters, and drive wooden or concrete columns into each corner. When using wood, each column must first be impregnated with a liquid that protects against rot. The diameter of the column should be 10-15 cm, and the height should be about 2.5 meters, where less than a meter accounts for the part dug into the ground. On three sides, the wall material is nailed to the posts. It can be ordinary wooden slats, but it is much better, if finances allow, to use a metal mesh with a mesh size of 1-4 cm. The resulting block is gradually filled with compost, starting from the end. If there is not enough free space, then the block is doubled by driving two more posts and fixing an additional grid on them.

When adding a new portion of compost to the block, it must immediately be covered with a small (10 cm) layer of earth, peat, straw or dry leaves. This layer serves as an odor absorber and heat insulator for enhanced compost debate. Not everyone knows that during the debate the compost heats up on its own, and the temperature is higher in the very center of the compost unit and can reach more than 60 degrees. Therefore, for more uniform rotting, compost must be shoveled several times during the summer, moving it from the periphery to the center.

In one or two summers, compost completely decays, turns into a fertile inorganic humus rich in minerals - an excellent fertilizer for many types of plants. It is noteworthy that you can add to the compost anything that can rot relatively quickly: food debris, manure, weed weeds, fallen leaves, paper, etc. In hot, dry weather, it is better to moisten the compost by lightly watering it from a hose - this contributes to the debate of organics. In addition, gardeners noticed that on half-ripe compost heaps without any effort, zucchini, pumpkin and squash grow very well. With their roots, they strengthen the shape of the folded compost, and the leaves shade it. So it makes sense to dig in the heels of the seeds and combine business with pleasure.

After one or two summer seasons, compost produces homogeneous fertilizer for ridges, which is gradually removed from the compost block. To do this, the end wall is disassembled, as necessary, removing the upper trims or tearing off the grid. Thus, on one side of the block make compost, on the other - make humus. Next season, when the humus of last year will be scooped up, and the compost will decay, the sides will change places.

The method of composting, if implemented correctly, is good for its “wastelessness”; it allows you to kill two birds with one stone: firstly, to constantly maintain order and cleanliness country house with the land plot, without littering the land, and secondly, - “wholesale” (and free, besides) to recycle garbage into fertilizer.

When planning the construction of a house on the acquired land allotment, it is necessary to find out the building standards of the IZHS land plot. At the same time, it is worthwhile to figure out what the standard height of the garage of private houses is, the remoteness of the construction of a private house from neighbors and other standards for the location of structures.

Legislative acts

Finding out the norms of building land for individual use, it is worth exploring legislative framework. The local authorities regulate the rules for placing a house on the SNiP plot, and establish the requirements for the development of the IZHS land plot. They determine the construction standards in a particular region. Therefore, looking through the projects of houses and their placement options, it is better to navigate typical for the region options.

The rules for building a private house are established by SNiPs and GOSTs for construction. When creating a project, when building a house, one must be guided by SNiP on 02/31/2001. For the construction of cottages in the country, SNiP 30.02.97 should be guided.

Individual housing should be carried out taking into account the provisions prescribed in Town Planning Code. Observe established urban standards and requirements regarding the preservation of the intended purpose of the land, building standards of settlements, compliance architectural plan cities.

Upon obtaining permission for an individual housing construction focus on SNiP 11-3-99.

Established standards

Having become the owner of the land intended for private housing construction, it is necessary to find out building standards, to understand how the planning and development of a private plot of private housing construction works. It is necessary to find out what SNiP 2016 says about construction. After all, building codes for developers are the main document.

When choosing sites for building a house, you should focus not only on the availability of communications. We must remember the established norms for building a house on the IZHS site. Carefully see if it is suitable for the construction of individual residential buildings.

The procedure for building a house on a land plot is regulated by SNiP for construction. The norms for building a house on the IZHS site are based on the fact that at least 0.06 ha is allocated for development. Focusing on the standards, they plan what the features of the construction of a residential building will be.

When planning and building individual residential buildings, you should remember what SNiPs say about safety. They describe all the rules for the development of the site, indicate the remoteness between the buildings on neighboring land plots.

The layout of the site is brought in accordance with SP 11-106-97. These are construction regulations governing the process of creating a project for the construction of a private residential building, its approval and approval. The normative document describing the placement of buildings in summer cottages is SNiP 30-02-97.

The norms of construction on the land plot IZHS tell what it should be:

• location of the house on the plot
• distance between residential buildings
• distance of the house from the fence (distance to the neighboring plot from the individual houses being built)
• built-up area
• distance between buildings

The distance from the house to the border of the site is regulated by sanitary standards for the development of the site. But the rules for the location of the house, the requirements for the construction and location of residential buildings in neighboring areas are regulated by fire regulations. Building codes and the rules talk about the distances between buildings, structures on neighboring plots of land.

Fire rules for the location of the house allow you to do two-row buildings. In this case, 2 household or residential buildings on the site are located close to each other. The main thing is to observe the distances from the boundaries of the conditional red line when erecting structures.

Sanitary regulations

Before the construction of the building, you need to understand how the layout of the site is carried out and what is the red line of the building. This is the border separating private land from the carriageway. Red lines for roads - 5 meters, for streets with little traffic and dead-end yards - 3 meters.

When figuring out how to properly place buildings, keep in mind that the red lines determine the distance between the municipal property and the residential building. All utility structures are recommended to be erected further from the street. Fire regulations when building a house should be taken into account.

Sanitary standards for private construction govern the development plan and the rules for placing buildings on the land. The order of placement and norms of the distance between the house and the fence of neighbors:

• residential premises should be built at a distance of 3 m .;
• buildings for cattle, birds erected at a distance of more than 4 m from the boundary;
• for the construction of farm buildings from the fence should be retreat 1 m.;
• the distance from the toilet to the neighboring border is 8 meters, the same norm for a compost pit.

The height of the fence between the neighbors is adjustable. The requirements for fences between sections are as follows. It is allowed to build a fence 75 cm high from the ground from opaque materials, above the fence is made of transparent materials. But fences and barriers can be made deaf of any height by agreement between neighbors. The agreement is desirable to fix on paper.

From the side of the street, homeowners have the right to install fences of any height. Only low plants are allowed to plant in a private house near the fence.

Safety standards

When erecting buildings, it is necessary to take into account fire safety standards in construction. Focusing on them, the site is planned, marking is done to fill the foundation, the location of objects on the site is determined. After that, the workers begin to erect buildings on the IZHS site. Please note:

• between residential buildings assigned to resistance level 1 and 2 there should be more than 6 meters (walls made of bricks, foam blocks, sandstone, concrete), this is the distance to the building of neighbors
• for one of the residential buildings of the 3rd level of fire resistance, the distance increases to 8 meters
• when constructing a wooden residential building on the earth, the distance from other structures in neighboring areas reaches from 15 meters

The last norm must be remembered when building a bath. If the size of the land does not allow such large deviations from the boundaries of the plot, then think about how the layout of the plot and the placement of buildings on the land plot can be changed, the built-up area is recalculated. It is allowed to indent deep into the land to erect structures or to bring the building closer to the fence during construction so that it is not on the same line with neighboring residential buildings.

If the structures have wooden floors, then the distance between the buildings should be increased by 2 times.

It is worth strictly observing fire standards during the construction of a house. This will protect buildings from fire and facilitate access to firefighters in the event of an emergency.

The established standards for building a house govern the number of floors. Without prior coordination with architectural control bodies, it is allowed to build no more than 3, including the basement and the attic. It will be a low-rise construction.

Fire regulations during the construction of an individual residential building do not standardize the distance between buildings on the same site. They regulate the distance between private houses and erected business buildings of private houses.

Private IZHS

Regulate the rules for the construction of a residential building SNiPy. If the land is intended for individual housing construction, then the construction of a commercial building is prohibited.

Must be observed set distance between houses during the construction of a private house. The neighbors ’IZH site should be more than 3 m. The distance to the fence from the extension can be reduced to 1.5 m. The distance of the house from the forest borders is also regulated. Make sure that There are more than 15 m from the residential building to the trees.

The 2016 rules govern the rules for building a garage in the private sector. The distance from the garage to the fence is 1 m, the distance from the apartment building to the garage is 2 m. But let us assume the option of placement in the basement with additional ventilation.

SNiPs regulate the building area. The following minimum municipal requirements are established for individual housing construction:

• the size of the living room is 12, the bedrooms are 8 m2;
• for other rooms, the following built-up area is defined: kitchen - 6, bathtub - 1.8, toilet - 0.96, hallway - 1.8 m2.
• the width of the stairs, corridors - 0.9 m2;
• ceiling height in a residential building - 2.5, ground floor, basement - 2 m.

Standards for construction regulate the process of joining communications. Residential buildings are deemed suitable for living if they are connected to utilities. They are centralized or autonomous.

The private sector is powered primarily by overhead power lines. Sewerage of the house on the site along the street is laid at a depth of not less than 0.3 m., It is necessary to make a bias towards the collector. A private residential building is provided with water by connecting to the central pipes. Private houses in the city can use artesian wells, wells or water brought in barrels.

Standards for baths

When planning the location of the bathhouse on the site, review the projects of houses with the indicated buildings. It is recommended to arrange the bath so that the entrance and the building can be seen from the living quarters. This will allow you to control the kindling process and notice the danger in time without leaving the apartment building.

The location of the bath on the site is desirable to do so:

• smoke bath - more than 12 m from other buildings on the IZhS site (not recommended in densely populated areas due to increased fire hazard);
• the distance of any dwelling, country house from an ordinary sauna is more than 6 m;
• remoteness from outbuildings - 1-4 m.

The distance from the house to the bath is better coordinated with sanitary standards. If the bathhouse is wooden, then 15 m should be retreated. SNiP regulates the distance from the bathhouse to the neighbor’s fence.

Garages

The regulations govern the construction of a garage in the private sector. There are several options for how the construction of the garage on the site. The location of the garage on the site may be as follows:

• near the road with entry from the street;
• under a residential building;
• freestanding room.

The following building codes for land plots apply to the construction of a garage on land. The height of the garage is planned so as not to block the neighbors natural light. The garage is forbidden to close the free access to the houses or the entrance to the land plot. The distance from the garage to the neighbors' fence is 1 m. This means that for the construction of the garage 1 m should be retreat from the fence, the distance from the residential building is from 2 m.

Installation of fences

Construction Norms and Regulations for the construction of a private house IZHS describes not only the features of building a plot for IZHS, but also regulates exactly what distance must be made between the fence and other structures. Prescribes how to install fencing SNiP 30-02-97. This document regulates cottage construction, but local authorities use it when developing standards for the construction of private residential buildings.

Also, the distance from the fence to the bath is prescribed in SNiP. It is necessary to be based on the norms of the location of a residential building and utility structures. This means that the layout of the site is carried out as follows: it is enough to retreat 1 m from the neighbors' fence. This distance between the fence and the outbuildings is determined for cases when the borders are separated by mesh or grid fences.

In villages, the established distance from the house to the fence is often not taken into account. Many buildings are placed along many fences installed between neighboring sections. For the construction of a garage, no one often retreats from the fence, although it is necessary that at least 1 m remains from the borders of the neighbors' plot.

When planning the fencing of the land, it is necessary to take into account the construction standards on the IZHS site. Using a metal mesh for fencing land plot for development, poles are installed at a distance of 2-3 m. If the land owner bought other materials for the fence, then you should be guided by the rules for their installation.

Construction SNiP prescribes how to install fences between summer cottages. In other cases, it is necessary to focus on the local standards for the development of a site for individual housing construction. By agreement with neighbors, the height and material of the fences can be changed, but the layout of the site should be carried out taking into account what the norms of the location of buildings on the land indicate.

Legislative changes

In 2015, the land law came into force. Thanks to this, the Russians got the opportunity to purchase a plot under private housing construction without bidding. What you need to obtain land can be found in local governments.

Beneficiaries have the right to become owners of the site before bidding if they take it for individual housing construction. In some areas, land for private housing is given for free. So attract specialists to sparsely populated areas.

The land law also provided the opportunity to build country cottages on free lands of horticultural partnerships.

The new laws made it possible to attach empty land to their plots, paying for them amounts not exceeding the size of the cadastral valuation. The construction conditions on them do not differ from the generally accepted ones.

If the land was leased for the purpose of erecting multi-apartment residential buildings, but nothing was erected in 5 years, then the lease can be extended for 3 years if there are good reasons. In other cases, the lease terminates, the unfinished object is sold to bona fide developers who will provide equity investors with apartment buildings.

Getting permission

When planning the start of building a house on your own land, you need to figure out how to properly place the building. This takes into account the following:

• percentage of land development;
• built-up area;
• the distance to the neighboring section of farm buildings on the site;
• individual features of the location of the house on the site;
• garage location in a private courtyard;
• the distance from the house to the border of the plot.

You can understand how to do the planning calculation if you look standard projects houses made by SNiP. The land plots plans show how the placement of the house is carried out on the territory of the IZHS site. Design standards will help you figure out which building your family needs.

Where to begin? First of all, you need to take permission to build houses. After that, you can begin to build a house. The building area, the number of storeys of the building, and the location on the site should be agreed.

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