Is it possible to make a compost pit along the fence. Secrets of Clean Fertilizers

At the end of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement of the sewer system in tenement house, a production building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the involved system by the method of forced spill. Given task applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewer part and the test certificate of systems domestic sewage and gutters will be material evidence of the acceptance of the object.

Visual inspection should be accompanied by entering into the test certificate of internal sewage systems and drains according to SNIP, which is currently presented by the current regulations of the application of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary-technical systems of the building”, recently a new one is applicable Updated working edition on SNiP 3.05.01-85.

Roofs, which are made of a metal profile, are today a common version of technological designs for complex and simple structural solutions. As a rule, such structural solutions are used for large production areas, warehouses, agricultural buildings, as well as for apartment buildings. The exact life of the main technical characteristics depends on a number of factors, including how effectively end elements are fixed, where last point The wind bar for corrugated board plays in this. The cross section of such a design can have a different look, and for the most part it has been taken into account from the typical design of corrugated board, the working wave height, the width of the wave distance of the roof. main feature roof wind protection, these are unique characteristics that have various bends for configuration.

The main structural solution is the size of the wind bar for corrugated board, having the form of a panel made at a conditional right angle. The traditional size of the additional part is 2 linear meters. The width of the material is different, it has a range from 40 * 60 mm and up to 90 * 300 mm. For narrow types of planks, it is usually used for sheathing from a thick, dense corrugated board, which has a low wave height.

The pinnacle of technical thought and innovative developments of the latest generation to ensure water disposal in the house, as Nicoll gutters are called by those who, on duty, are engaged in the installation of high-quality water disposal for buildings of various infrastructure. For the first time, the brand was born in France, back in 1956, and for 6 decades, the manufacturer has remained unchanged with the principles of quality and reliability for all used drainage systems. Innovative ideas have made Nicoll drains popular in many countries of the world, and the certification of quality and management according to SO 9001 and ISO 14001 is an additional confirmation of trust in this brand.

Already today the Nicoll gutter system has reached the world level, and the manufacturer has managed to expand the production site, which is over 1 thousand hectares, and the total number of positions in the company's product range is about 6 thousand units. It is noteworthy that polyvinyl chloride, polystyrene, as well as polyester, which increase the strength of the finished product, enhance the basic characteristics of the material as reliable materials for Nicole drains.

When planning the construction of a house on the acquired land allotment, it is necessary to find out building standards the land IZHS. At the same time, it is worthwhile to figure out what the standard height of the garage of private houses is, the remoteness of the construction of a private house from neighbors and other standards for the location of structures.

Legislative acts

Finding out building standards land plots for individual use, it is worth examining the legal framework. The local authorities regulate the rules for placing a house on the SNiP plot, and establish the requirements for the development of the IZHS land plot. They determine the construction standards in a particular region. Therefore, looking through the projects of houses and their placement options, it is better to navigate typical for the region options.

The rules for building a private house are established by SNiPs and GOSTs for construction. When creating a project, when building a house, one must be guided by SNiP on 02/31/2001. For the construction of cottages in the country, SNiP 30.02.97 should be guided.

Individual housing should be carried out taking into account the provisions prescribed in Town Planning Code. Observe established urban standards and requirements regarding the preservation of the intended purpose of the land, building standards of settlements, compliance architectural plan cities.

Upon obtaining permission for an individual housing construction focus on SNiP 11-3-99.

Established standards

Having become the owner of the land intended for private housing construction, it is necessary to find out building standards, to understand how the planning and development of a private plot of private housing construction works. It is necessary to find out what SNiP 2016 says about construction. After all, building codes for developers are the main document.

When choosing sites for building a house, you should focus not only on the availability of communications. We must remember the established norms for building a house on the IZHS site. Carefully see if it is suitable for the construction of individual residential buildings.

The procedure for building a house on a land plot is regulated by SNiP for construction. The norms for building a house on the IZHS site are based on the fact that at least 0.06 ha is allocated for development. Focusing on the standards, they plan what the features of the construction of a residential building will be.

When planning and building individual residential buildings, you should remember what SNiPs say about safety. They describe all the rules for the development of the site, indicate the remoteness between the buildings on neighboring land plots.

The layout of the site is brought in accordance with SP 11-106-97. These are construction regulations governing the process of creating a project for the construction of a private residential building, its approval and approval. Normative documentdescribing the placement of buildings on suburban areas, is SNiP 30-02-97.

The norms of construction on the land plot IZHS tell what it should be:

• location of the house on the plot
• distance between residential buildings
• distance of the house from the fence (distance to the neighboring plot from the individual houses being built)
• built-up area
• distance between buildings

The distance from the house to the border of the site is regulated by sanitary standards for the development of the site. But the rules for the location of the house, the requirements for the construction and location of residential buildings in neighboring areas are regulated by fire regulations. Building codes and the rules talk about the distances between buildings, structures on neighboring plots of land.

Fire rules for the location of the house allow you to do two-row buildings. In this case, 2 household or residential buildings on the site are located close to each other. The main thing is to observe the distances from the boundaries of the conditional red line when erecting structures.

Sanitary regulations

Before the construction of the building, you need to understand how the layout of the site is carried out and what is the red line of the building. This is the border separating private land from the carriageway. Red lines for roads - 5 meters, for streets with little traffic and dead-end yards - 3 meters.

When figuring out how to properly place buildings, keep in mind that the red lines determine the distance between the municipal property and the residential building. All utility structures are recommended to be erected further from the street. Fire regulations when building a house should be taken into account.

Sanitary standards for private construction govern the development plan and the rules for placing buildings on the land. The order of placement and norms of the distance between the house and the fence of neighbors:

• residential premises should be built at a distance of 3 m .;
• buildings for cattle, birds erected at a distance of more than 4 m from the boundary;
• for erection farm buildings 1 m should be retreat from the fence;
• the distance from the toilet to the neighboring border is 8 meters, the same norm for compost pit.

The height of the fence between the neighbors is adjustable. The requirements for fences between sections are as follows. It is allowed to build a fence 75 cm high from the ground from opaque materials, above the fence is made of transparent materials. But fences and barriers can be made deaf of any height by agreement between neighbors. The agreement is desirable to fix on paper.

From the side of the street, homeowners have the right to install fences of any height. Only low plants are allowed to plant in a private house near the fence.

Safety standards

When erecting buildings, it is necessary to take into account fire safety standards in construction. Focusing on them, the site is planned, marking is done to fill the foundation, the location of objects on the site is determined. After that, the workers begin the construction of buildings on the IZHS site. Please note:

• between residential buildings assigned to resistance level 1 and 2 there should be more than 6 meters (walls made of bricks, foam blocks, sandstone, concrete), this is the distance to the building of neighbors
• for one of the residential buildings of the 3rd level of fire resistance, the distance increases to 8 meters
• when erecting a wooden residential building on land, the distance from other structures in neighboring areas reaches from 15 meters

The last norm must be remembered when building a bath. If the size of the land does not allow you to make such large deviations from the boundaries of the plot, then think about how the layout of the plot and the placement of buildings on the plot can be changed, the built-up area is recalculated. It is allowed to indent deep into the land to erect structures or to bring the building closer to the fence during construction so that it is not on the same line with neighboring residential buildings.

If the structures have wooden floors, then the distance between the buildings should be increased by 2 times.

It is worth strictly observing fire standards during the construction of a house. This will protect buildings from fire and facilitate access to firefighters in the event of an emergency.

The established standards for building a house govern the number of floors. Without prior coordination with architectural control bodies, it is allowed to build no more than 3, including the basement and the attic. It will be a low-rise construction.

Fire safety standards during the construction of an individual residential building do not standardize the distance between buildings on the same site. They regulate the distance between private houses and erected business buildings of private houses.

Private IZHS

Regulate the rules for the construction of a residential building SNiPy. If the land is intended for individual housing construction, then the construction of a commercial building is prohibited.

Must be observed set distance between houses during the construction of a private house. The neighbors ’IZH site should be more than 3 m. The distance to the fence from the extension can be reduced to 1.5 m. The distance of the house from the forest borders is also regulated. Make sure that There are more than 15 m from the residential building to the trees.

The 2016 rules govern the rules for building a garage in the private sector. The distance from the garage to the fence is 1 m, the distance from the apartment building to the garage is 2 m. But let us assume the option of placement in the basement with additional ventilation.

SNiPs regulate the building area. The following minimum municipal requirements are established for individual housing construction:

• the size of the living room is 12, the bedrooms are 8 m2;
• for other rooms, the following built-up area is defined: kitchen - 6, bathtub - 1.8, toilet - 0.96, hallway - 1.8 m2.
• the width of the stairs, corridors - 0.9 m2;
• ceiling height in a residential building - 2.5, ground floor, basement - 2 m.

Standards for construction regulate the process of joining communications. Residential buildings are recognized suitable for living if they are connected to utilities. They are centralized or autonomous.

The private sector is powered primarily by overhead power lines. Sewerage of the house on the site along the street is laid at a depth of not less than 0.3 m., It is necessary to make a bias towards the collector. A private residential building is provided with water by connecting to the central pipes. Private houses in the city can use artesian wells, wells or water brought in barrels.

Standards for baths

When planning the location of the bathhouse on the site, review the projects of houses with the indicated buildings. It is recommended to arrange the bath so that the entrance and the building can be seen from the living quarters. This will allow you to control the kindling process and notice the danger in time without leaving the apartment building.

The location of the bath on the site is desirable to do so:

• smoke bath - more than 12 m from other buildings on the IZhS site (not recommended in densely populated areas due to increased fire hazard);
• the distance of any living space country house from an ordinary sauna - more than 6 m;
• remoteness from outbuildings - 1-4 m.

The distance from the house to the bath is better coordinated with sanitary standards. If the bathhouse is wooden, then 15 m should be retreated. SNiP regulates the distance from the bathhouse to the neighbor’s fence.

Garages

The regulations govern the construction of a garage in the private sector. There are several options for how the construction of the garage on the site. The location of the garage on the site may be as follows:

• near the road with entry from the street;
• under a residential building;
• freestanding room.

The following building codes for land plots apply to the construction of a garage on land. The height of the garage is planned so as not to block the neighbors natural light. The garage is forbidden to block the free access to the houses or the entrance to the land plot. The distance from the garage to the neighbors' fence is 1 m. This means that for the construction of the garage 1 m should be retreat from the fence, the distance from the residential building is from 2 m.

Installation of fences

Construction Norms and Regulations for the construction of a private house IZHS describes not only the features of building a plot for IZHS, but also regulates exactly what distance must be made between the fence and other structures. Prescribes how to install fencing SNiP 30-02-97. This document regulates cottage construction, but local authorities use it when developing standards for the construction of private residential buildings.

Also, the distance from the fence to the bath is prescribed in SNiP. It is necessary to be based on the norms of the location of a residential building and utility structures. This means that the layout of the site is carried out as follows: it is enough to retreat 1 m from the neighbors' fence. This distance between the fence and the outbuildings is determined for cases when the borders are separated by mesh or grid fences.

In villages, the established distance from the house to the fence is often not taken into account. Many buildings are placed along many fences installed between neighboring sections. For the construction of a garage, no one often retreats from the fence, although it is necessary that at least 1 m remains from the borders of the neighbors' plot.

When planning the fencing of the land, it is necessary to take into account the construction standards on the IZHS site. Using a metal mesh for fencing land plot for development, poles are installed at a distance of 2-3 m. If the land owner bought other materials for the fence, then you should be guided by the rules for their installation.

Construction SNiP prescribes how to install fences between summer cottages. In other cases, it is necessary to focus on the local standards for the development of a site for individual housing construction. By agreement with neighbors, the height and material of the fences can be changed, but the layout of the site should be carried out taking into account what the norms of the location of buildings on the land indicate.

Legislative changes

In 2015, the land law came into force. Thanks to this, the Russians got the opportunity to purchase a plot under private housing construction without bidding. What you need to obtain land can be found in local governments.

Beneficiaries have the right to become owners of the site before bidding if they take it for individual housing construction. In some areas, land for private housing is given for free. So attract specialists to sparsely populated areas.

The land law also provided the opportunity to build country cottages on free lands of horticultural partnerships.

The new laws made it possible to attach empty land to their plots, paying for them amounts not exceeding the size of the cadastral valuation. The construction conditions on them do not differ from the generally accepted ones.

If the land was leased for the purpose of erecting multi-apartment residential buildings, but nothing was erected in 5 years, then the lease can be extended for 3 years if there are good reasons. In other cases, the lease terminates, the unfinished object is sold to bona fide developers who will provide shared investors with apartment buildings.

Getting permission

When planning the start of building a house on your own land, you need to figure out how to properly place the building. This takes into account the following:

• percentage of land development;
• built-up area;
• the distance to the neighboring section of farm buildings on the site;
• individual features of the location of the house on the site;
• garage location in a private courtyard;
• the distance from the house to the border of the plot.

You can understand how to do the planning calculation if you look standard projects houses made by SNiP. The land plots plans show how the placement of the house is carried out on the territory of the IZHS site. Design standards will help you figure out which building your family needs.

Where to begin? First of all, you need to take permission to build houses. After that, you can begin to build a house. The building area, the number of storeys of the building, and the location on the site should be agreed.

This will be interesting for you:

It would seem that it could be simpler: we select some place and time after time we throw out the remnants of food there, store the weathered weeds and other waste from the summer cottage. However, a good master tries to perform every, even simple business, wisely and to the maximum benefit.

Proper composting begins with choosing a place for the compost heap. Sanitary standards require it to be located at a distance of at least 25 meters from residential buildings and wells. Of course, this is not possible in small areas, and the requirements are indicated “with a margin”, but the separation of the house and compost should still be at least 15 meters. Otherwise, the smell of rot will fill your home from snow to snow. Another measure that reduces the spread of odor is to place the compost pile in a place protected from the wind.

Overall dimensions of the compost box according to the same requirements: width - 2 m, height - less than 1.5 m. Length can be arbitrary. With gradual filling, the heap will inevitably creep to the sides, so it is better to enclose the place for laying compost. If the volume of space necessary for composting is difficult to determine in advance, then optimal option - fence on three sides. To do this, tamp the ground on a selected site, draw a square with a side of 1.5-2 meters, and drive wooden or concrete columns into each corner. When using wood, each column must first be impregnated with a liquid that protects against rot. The diameter of the column should be 10-15 cm, and the height should be about 2.5 meters, where less than a meter accounts for the part dug into the ground. On three sides, the wall material is nailed to the posts. It can be ordinary wooden slats, but it is much better, if finances allow, to use a metal mesh with a mesh size of 1-4 cm. The resulting block is gradually filled with compost, starting from the end. If there is not enough free space, then the block is doubled by driving two more posts and fixing an additional grid on them.

When adding a new portion of compost to the block, it must immediately be covered with a small (10 cm) layer of earth, peat, straw or dry leaves. This layer serves as an odor absorber and heat insulator for enhanced compost debate. Not everyone knows that during the debate the compost heats up on its own, and the temperature is higher in the very center of the compost unit and can reach more than 60 degrees. Therefore, for more uniform rotting, compost must be shoveled several times during the summer, moving it from the periphery to the center.

In one or two summers, compost completely decays, turns into a fertile inorganic humus rich in minerals - an excellent fertilizer for many types of plants. It is noteworthy that you can add to the compost anything that can rot relatively quickly: food debris, manure, weed weeds, fallen leaves, paper, etc. In hot, dry weather, it is better to moisten the compost by lightly watering it from a hose - this contributes to the debate of organics. In addition, gardeners noticed that on half-ripe compost heaps without any effort, zucchini, pumpkin and squash grow very well. With their roots, they strengthen the shape of the folded compost, and the leaves shade it. So it makes sense to dig in the heels of the seeds and combine business with pleasure.

After one or two summer seasons, compost produces homogeneous fertilizer for ridges, which is gradually removed from the compost block. To do this, the end wall is disassembled, as necessary, removing the upper trims or tearing off the grid. Thus, on one side of the block make compost, on the other - make humus. Next season, when the humus of last year will be scooped up, and the compost will decay, the sides will change places.

The composting method, if properly implemented, is good for its “waste-free” nature; it allows you to kill two birds with one stone: firstly, to constantly maintain order and cleanliness of a country house with a land plot without cluttering the land, and secondly, “wholesale” (and free , besides) recycle garbage into fertilizer.

Even at the design stage of a private house, you need to take into account many parameters and location rules of various buildings relative to the fence. Even on your own site, buildings cannot be located by you in any order. The rules for installing hedges and building structures inside the site are regulated by SNiP. In addition to the requirements of SNiP, local standards must be taken into account. It is desirable to fulfill the requirements and recommendations of SNiP, because non-compliance threatens with a fine or lawsuit from dissatisfied neighbors. And basically judgment rendered not in favor of the offender.

Fence Requirements

When arranging your site, information on the construction standards of the fence itself is important. For a private house, the requirements for the fence are as follows:

In other cases, there are practically no restrictions, the best materialsmeeting these requirements are:

The height and transparency of the adjacent fence can be agreed with the neighbors.
In this case, the consent is better to draw up in writing and assure. This will be an official document that can help, even if the neighbors change over time.

The distance from the fence to the house

It is very important at the design and construction stage to correctly position the house relative to the hedge. To find out at what distance to build a house to the fence, you need to use established standards.

Fence on the side of the roadway

A section of a hedge overlooking the road, the so-called red line, is usually equipped with a gate and a gate. The smallest distance from the fence to the house is set at 5 m. Violation of the construction boundaries in a smaller direction can cause problems when processing documents in the BTI, and does not comply with fire safety standards.

Required standards for the distance from the fence from the roadway

If the road is a passage, the distance can be reduced to 3 m.

In addition to the requirements of SNiP, there are fire safety standards that are sometimes difficult to fulfill:

• A house of stone, brick, concrete should be 6-8 m from the fence;
• Frame buildings with fireproof insulation - 10-12 m;
• Wooden house - 12-15 m.

A distance of 5 m has its advantages and is preferable from the practical side:

• The greater the distance from the road, the less noise will be heard from passing cars;
• Remoteness from exhaust gases and road dust;
• The ability to hide privacy from the views of casual passers-by.

The fence adjacent to the adjacent plot

Frequent conflicts and litigation are related to the location of buildings at a close distance from the boundary line. To avoid quarrels and misunderstandings with neighbors, you should carefully consider the existing requirements for.
The distance to neighboring houses is determined by the fire safety requirements:

• Non-combustible materials (stone, reinforced concrete, concrete) - 6 m;
• Non-combustible and slow-burning materials with wood floors - 8 m;
• Wood and frame structures - 10 m.

Often, conflicts with neighbors arise due to the shaded area during the construction of a multi-storey cottage. A tall house that is too close to a neighboring fence can cause poor growth of plants and trees. However, no one wants at the expense of their own interests to have a house in the middle of the plot.

In any case, on this issue it is better to contact specialists who, based on the situation, the size of the plot and other details, will offer the best option. It is worth remembering that the minimum construction distance to an adjacent fence should be at least 3 m.
This arrangement is quite legal and rarely disputed by neighbors.

At what distance from the fence to build a bath

The location of the bath depends on many parameters: the material used for construction, the method of arranging the sewage system. According to sanitary and fire standards, the minimum distance from the bathhouse to the fence adjacent to the neighboring plot is 3 m.

This distance is due to the specificity of the building: the drained wastewater from the bath should not fall into the neighboring area. In addition, the bathhouse can cause a fire or a dense shadow in an adjacent area.

According to the rules, you can save half a meter by equipping a sewer drain and a drainage system, then a distance of 2.5 meters to the neighbors' hedges is considered acceptable. In addition to the boundary line, you need to take into account the distance to the next house - 8 m. It can be reduced to 6 m if the bath is built from materials of 1-2 combustibility classes (brick, concrete or stone).

Before starting construction on the cottage sections of the compost pit, think about whether you need it and for what purposes. Such a facility performs the functions of disposing of household organic waste. A compost pit will also come in handy in order to produce the fertilizer needed by the garden, if you are not going to plant siderasts on your land to fertilize the soil.
You can undoubtedly store the waste together with the remains of fruits and vegetables in bags, and then take it to city trash containers. But don't do it - it's pollution the environment. If you build on a summer cottage compost pit, you can recycle the vast majority of organic waste into a wonderful nutrient mixture for your plants called compost. And time will not be spent on waste collection.

The purpose of the compost pit

Each compost pit has a set of corresponding design features that depend on the needs for which it will be used. If you don’t know where to throw the garbage, you may be interested in a nice bonus that you can get in a few years - valuable compost. Then you need to build a compost pit using the appropriate circuit.

Getting and using compost.

If you want to short term prepare fertilizer from improvised materials, which can serve as leaves, mowed grass, manure, then the compost pit will have a different design. There are some requirements that must be followed when equipping a compost pit.

How to equip and use a compost pit?

When choosing a location compost pit try to take into account some rather important points:

Set up a hole at a distance of at least 25-30 meters from sources of drinking water - wells, wells, streams or other bodies of water.

In suburban areas with a slope, the pit is located at a level below the well.

Observance of such precautions is necessary because otherwise decayed waste may be in drinking water, which is dangerous and undesirable.

When building a pit, consider the wind rose so as not to poison yourself and your neighbors with unpleasant odors.

If you place the compost pit in an open sunny area, its contents will overheat. This stops composting. therefore best option the pit equipment will be arranged on a site shaded by tree crowns.

The best place for the compost pit is the corner of the land adjacent to the fence or blank wall.

It is also necessary to determine which waste is placed in the compost pit and which cannot be left in it.

Waste that can fill the compost pit

1. Raw vegetables, fruits, berries, tea, cereals, coffee, cleaning residues;
2. Hay, mowed grass and straw;
3. Foliage;
4. Branches, bark of trees, roots of shrubs and trees that need to be chopped a little;
5. By weeds;
6. Wood ash;
7. Needles;
8. Napkins, cardboard, paper bags (paper must be natural) - all this is crushed;
9. Unpainted wood waste;
10. Second-year manure of herbivores.

Than it is possible to fill a compost hole in a summer cottage.

What is forbidden to fill the pit?

1. Bones;
2. Pet experiments, because they can have helminth eggs;
3. Insect pests and their eggs;
4. Affected diseases of plants (tops of tomatoes, sick with late blight, pumpkin and, sick with powdery mildew, and others);
5. Plants from earthen plots that have been treated with herbicides;
6. Inorganic waste, which can be in the form of plastic, iron, rubber or synthetic fabrics.

All waste that cannot be composted is best disposed of or disposed of if it is excreted.

Rules for sorting household waste for use in a compost pit.

Organic waste is treated by microorganisms and earthworms. Do not isolate all walls of the compost pit below the ground, because if you dig a pit in the ground at a depth of 50 cm and then enclose it with an impermeable material, worms and microorganisms cannot penetrate it. In this case, their independent sharing is necessary.

As can be seen from the above, the rules cannot be called complex, but they must be observed.

Set up a compost pit or pile

The most important thing during the construction of the compost pit is to ensure good moisture and friability in case you want the composting process to be of high quality. There are no specific recommendations on this.

Arrangement of a compost pit in a summer cottage.

To maintain the moisture of the compost heap, you can regularly water it, or cover it with a film that will create a pair effect. The friability of the structure of the contents of the compost heap is supported by the fact that it is periodically crushed using conventional forks, or materials with different densities are laid in layers.

Optimal compost pit sizes

1. Width - no more than 1.5 meters;
2. Length - up to 2 meters;
3. The maximum height is 1.5 meters;
4. To dig into the ground no more than 0.4 meters.

There are several different compost pit designsthat can match the preferences of any owners.

Compost pit with two sections

It takes about 2 years to ripen and compost organic waste if you do not use the services of additional effective microorganisms along with those that are present in the soil on your site. In order to make the use of the pit more convenient, a two-section design is constructed:

1. Fresh waste is added to the first section;
2. The second section contains waste that has been composted since last year.

Prepared in the second section compost carry out and lay out in the beds on which they want to improve and saturate the earth with useful substances. A compost pit can be enclosed from all sides, made in the form of a box, but use only material that provides free access to air.

Wooden box for arranging a compost pit.

The box can be made of wooden fences, which are beaten in compliance with a small distance between them. At the same time, the contents of the pit will not block and will not smell unpleasant. Such a compost pit can be built independently in just 1-2 days - the duration of the work depends on the material chosen for the fence.

Compost pit with easy access from below:

Such a pit perfectly replaces the first option, because it does not require breaking into sections. Protect a bunch of 30 cm from the ground. At the bottom there is a accumulation of finished compost. If necessary, it is easily selected with a shovel and is used to fertilize the garden.

The construction of such a hole is very convenient and does not cause much trouble. Constantly, when compost is delivered from below, the contents of the heap sink lower, and take up the vacated space, at the same time it is saturated with oxygen. No special loosening and spreading is necessary.

Compost Heap Equipment

Not all summer residents love the artificial creation of unnecessary difficulties. The best way out of this situation is to do nothing, in which nothing is dug, not enclosed, not divided. Only a certain place is selected where organic waste is added, gradually forming a heap.

Food waste for compost pit.

If desired, this pile is poured with EM preparations, or covered with an opaque film to speed up the composting process. If you have nowhere to hurry, then you should not cover the pile - its contents will cross over on its own, it only takes time.

Use of plastic containers and barrels

It is convenient to use plastic containers for composting for those who do not spare money and want their compost pit to look presentable. The container is installed in any convenient place, since there is no risk of contamination of drinking water due to the tightness of the container. In addition, the tank has special ventilation in order to prevent stagnation of water.

The use of plastic barrels for the manufacture of compost pits.

When using this option, you need to know that it is necessary to use drugs that accelerate the decomposition of organic waste, or the settling of earthworms in a pit.

Self-construction of a compost pit

An example would be a self-composting compost pit on one of the suburban areas. If the structure will be fenced on all sides, and have a height of one and a half meters, its contents must be shaken periodically, but this is a very inconvenient task. Therefore, it was decided to arrange two heaps, or rather, one heap on two sides.

after choosing a good place - the corner of the site near the fence itself, organic residues were piled into a corner. It is very good if grass, manure and land are alternated. Initially, before the formation of the heap, a place for it is laid by branches of trees and shrubs.

DIY compost pit construction.

When the heap reaches 1 meter high, deep holes (several pieces) are made into which the EM preparation is poured (this can be Oksizin, EMochki, Bokashi). On the advice of specialists, you can cover the compost pile with an impenetrable film - this way constant humidity and temperature will be maintained in it, but not everyone does. When covered with a film, compost will become ready in 2-3 months, and for composting uncovered waste, a time of at least six months or a year is needed.

You can not use EM drugs. California worms or prospector worms will do just fine. However, the use of worms has its drawbacks. Worms love heat, and therefore do not work in the coldest month of the year. And it’s enough for microorganisms to raise the temperature in the compost heap to just + 4 ° С.

It is necessary to water a bunch of water from a hose in a dry time. If you need to get ready-made compost for transferring it to the beds, you can transfer the upper part of the heap to another place and choose ready-made humus accumulated at the bottom of the heap. After the humus is over, waste is again thrown at this place.

When building a compost heap, it comes to some summer residents to place a plastic film on the ground, onto which they then dump organic waste. They make such a design, believing that in this way there will be no leaching of useful elements into the soil. However, they are wrong, this cannot be done for the following reasons:

Insulating the base of the compost heap from the ground creates conditions that cause moisture to quickly evaporate from the heap. At the same time, moisture does not rise from the earth, despite the fact that even on hot days, thanks to the natural mechanism, moisture must rise from the depths of the earth upwards using special capillaries.

If the heap is isolated from the ground, this prevents the washing out of humus from the compost. Mineral fertilizers are washed out, since microelements are connected with organic substances and are constantly located in the upper soil layer.

But these properties are quite convenient for use in gardens - neither rain nor rain is terrible. And while limiting the minor leakage that may still occur, sprinkle a layer of peat 10 cm, which perfectly solves these problems: it prevents the leakage of nutrients into the ground. Peat also allows groundwater to rise in a heap.

Requirements for a proper compost pit

If after reading the article you still have questions about building the correct compost pit, get advice - do not build it at all. Why?

The work of dragging grass and other organic waste from one place to another can be considered superfluous and meaningless work. When composting, carbon dioxide vapors are formed - this is an indispensable plant nutrition that ineptly disappears on the heap, while simultaneously unpleasant smells on your nerves and your neighbors.

Proper arrangement and use of the compost pit.

You may be called an eccentric, but it is better to lay out organic waste directly in the beds, where they perfectly cross over and do not emit unpleasant odors. In addition, microorganisms will multiply in them right on the beds, earthworms will crawl, who will appreciate such an abundance of work for them. Mowed grass can be used as mulch. Grind and stack paths in the row-spacings of the branches, and scatter the fresh vegetables and fruits in the garden.

This will allow:

1. Keep moisture on the beds;
2. Nourish plants with carbon dioxide;
3. Do not let the weeds sprout in the beds;
4. To make compost in places where it is needed;
5. Prevent leaching of humus;
6. Reduce the amount of work.

The above work on the sale of organic and food waste is simple, not requiring the application of additional skills or efforts.