It is quite easy to arrange drainage around your site to remove excess moisture. It is important to choose the optimal format according to which the drainage ditch along the fence will be prepared, and to determine the required set of materials and tools.
Problems to be solved:
- In areas with high rainfall, soil erosion is a problem;
- At high pass groundwater the soil on the site is waterlogged;
- With the natural slope of the site, all the water accumulates in the lower part and “pulls” the entire fertile layer of soil with it;
- In hilly and mountainous areas, depending on the season, a huge volume of water falls on the site from the area higher up the slope;
- Atmospheric precipitation from the road surface accumulates under the fence along the perimeter of the site and can wash away the base and supports of the fence.
In all of the above situations, the optimal solution is to install drainage ditches or a productive hidden drainage system around the perimeter of the site.
The main task of the drainage ditch is to collect surface precipitation and remove it from the site.
However, it is not used to transport excess water, it is rather a localized drainage field where excess water accumulates and is gradually absorbed into the soil without bringing negative consequences for buildings and the fertile soil layer of the site.
Species
There are three types of drainage:
- open;
- closed, laying perforated pipes with backfill;
- backfill, the ditch is filled with coarse gravel and filter fills for rapid drainage of water.
To arrange drainage under the fence around the area with outside The easiest way is to use open drainage ditches with reinforced slopes and a stable slope, so that all excess water from the site and adjacent areas, including road surfaces, quickly goes to the depth of groundwater or is transported to the drainage field or drainage well.
Among the main advantages:
- small volume earthworks;
- minimum materials;
- a wide range of slope strengthening options;
- a simple way to maintain, clean and prevent drainage.
Requirements. Distance from fence
For any drainage systems focused on the reclamation of a private plot, SP 104-34-96 and SNiP 2.05.07-85 are standardized. The optimal slopes for organizing a drainage ditch, the distance to the fence and other structures, as well as design options depending on the required throughput and characteristics of the drained area, such as the general slope, soil type, etc., are discussed.
For a flat area or with a slight slope of up to five degrees to the horizon, the additional slope along the bottom of the ditch should be 3-5 ‰ (ppm), which corresponds to a difference in height of 3-5 cm for every 10 m.
In fact, the quality of the slope and its uniformity are determined on site during the preparation of the trench. It is difficult to ensure the shape of the trench with high accuracy, so you will have to adjust its geometry during the operation of the drainage.
It is important that the drainage ditch is located away from the fence posts and supporting structures so as not to erode their base. It is enough to move the upper border from the plane of the fence by 30-50 cm, and when arranging reinforcement of the walls, compact the soil so that water does not wash under the fence.
Methods for strengthening walls
The drainage ditch only partially acts as transport system, the water entering it must be effectively absorbed into the soil along the entire length along the bottom of the ditch. It is not advisable to use concrete sections or otherwise reinforce the bottom.
It is permissible to use a rigid waterproof base only if there are underground communications running underneath it, which should be protected from the effects of precipitation and groundwater.
Effective ways to strengthen slopes:
During excavation work and preparation of the base of the ditch, an extended pit is dug approximately twice as wide as necessary. A cushion of coarse sand or gravel is poured along the bottom.
The slopes are compacted manually or mechanically and covered with the material selected for reinforcement. Next, a layer of soil is poured in the same way with tamping and compaction, only at a lesser intensity.
Calculation
In order for the drainage ditch to cope with the task, several important rules must be followed:
- The depth of the ditch along its entire length must be greater than the depth of the foundation nearby buildings by 300-500 mm;
- The slope along its entire length, taking into account turns or a detour along the perimeter of the site, is directed to one point or along the lower border of the site;
- The slope is determined by the composition of the soil and the calculated throughput and ranges from 1 to 5 cm for every 10 meters of length.
If there is a drainage well located at a distance from the contour of the drainage ditch, you should take the extreme point of the drainage system located away from the well and calculate the depth, and then calculate the control points located along the route, which will be used to determine the correct geometry of the ditch.
With your own hands
It’s quite easy to build a ditch with your own hands, even if you do most of the digging work by hand. However, the difficulty will be caused by the presence of a large volume of selected soil along the length of the ditch.
It can be used to arrange a front garden around the perimeter of the site so that it is raised above general level soil.
The easiest way is to use the option of reinforcing the slopes with biomats, geomats, mesh or geotexile. In this case, there is no need to excessively compact the soil under the base; you can limit yourself to a small volume of loose drainage, sand or gravel, which will significantly reduce the load on the contractor.
Price
A drainage ditch can be organized efficiently, quickly and aesthetically using heavy rafter equipment.
A minimum amount of excavator will be required, which will dig the base for a ditch in a matter of hours and at the same time it will be easier to adjust the shape and geometry of the slopes, and the depth of the base.
The executing company will prepare a work project and estimate in advance so as not to guess about the actual cost of the work and count on a guaranteed result.
The main burden on the budget of this event may come from the preparation of a drainage well, if it is necessary, the rest of the work is much cheaper.
After acquiring land for development, it often turns out that the terrain and geology of the area are not entirely suitable for long-term use and agricultural activities. We will talk about raising and leveling the soil, from marking to protective landscaping.
When does it make sense to raise a site?
One of the worst geomorphological conditions is considered to be a rise in groundwater level above the depth of soil freezing. In such areas, heaving is especially pronounced, which is why there is a need for complex types of foundations, for example, pile-grillage. Shallow foundations do not work in such conditions, and full deepening requires support on a layer of soil 2.5-3 meters from the surface; above that, the foundation remains unstable and can be subject to precipitation due to high soil moisture.
It cannot be said that geodetic site planning is a cheap method to get rid of soil problems. However, the usefulness of such a solution can be expressed economically in favor of the developer, if raising the soil eliminates problems with waterproofing, insulation and stabilization of the foundation and the associated costs. This is usually true: planning makes it possible to solve the problem of poor geomorphology cheaper and, most importantly, faster, ultimately significantly reducing the period of foundation shrinkage. This solution is especially indicated when building a log house or installing prefabricated foundations.
But raising the level on the site does not always solve the problem. With a large slope (more than 5-7%), terracing should be done rather than raising the soil, and this is a completely different technology. On such slopes, even using special equipment to pour bored piles costs less money, but among foundations this is one of the most complex. There may also simply not be a dense enough layer of soil in the area to support the construction of the required mass. Raising the site in such a situation will not give anything at all; in any case, you will have to make the foundation floating.
Is drainage needed?
Drainage systems are indicated for artificially leveled areas with significant elevation differences, where, as we know, ordinary elevation cannot solve the problem. However, the phenomena of erosion and washout can be expressed even on small slopes, so minimal backfilling and surface drainage will have to be done.
Along both boundaries of the site, located along the slope, you need to dig rain trenches, one of which (the lower one) receives water from a cross-section arranged along the upper border of the site. The bottom of the trenches is filled with crushed stone, and shrubs are planted along the slopes. The trenches will have to be cleaned periodically; usually the owner of the site will have to clean the one that is higher in level. The depth of the trench should reach the upper aquifer and cut it a little - about 20-30 cm. In order to disturb the terrain less, the depth of the trenches can be adjusted with hygroscopic material - the same crushed stone or construction waste.
If the direction of the slope and the trenches diverge by more than 15º, you should be prepared for increased water flow. The bottom of the upper trench should be paved with bricks, or even better - with trays. In such areas, it makes sense to level the soil locally exclusively for buildings. In this case, the plot for the garden is simply protected from erosion by a trench across the slope, along the upper slope of which willow or several birch trees are planted. It is recommended to fill the bottom of the trench and its upper slope with crushed stone to prevent siltation.
There is no point in covering the entire layer of the embankment with black soil, just as there is no point in throwing clay on top of the fertile layer. The top layer will have to be removed to clean clay, and then returned to its place. If only part of the site is to be leveled, the excess soil is simply thrown onto the adjacent territory. If the site is planned completely, the work is carried out in two stages.
Soil excavation is carried out in order to eliminate the plastic washable layer between two dense layers, since there is a high probability of the embankment sliding under its own weight. The only exception is when the site is located simply in a lowland without a slope 20-30 cm below the adjacent territory. Here it is reasonable to limit ourselves to increasing the thickness of the fertile layer.
After the dense formation is exposed, a series of geodetic measurements are carried out. Knowing the configuration of the upper aquifer, you can determine the required volume of soil and begin its delivery. At the same time, the volume of crushed stone for backfilling is calculated and the installation of a drainage system is planned.
How to fill the hill
To create an embankment, hard-plastic clay in a swollen state, loam or sandy loam is used. The ability of the bedding to pass water is determined by geomorphology: if, when there is an abundance of water, it is not possible to fill a tightly compacted terrace or the bedding is carried out on top of a porous layer, the embankment should have limited water permeability. It is optimal if the load-bearing capacity of the clay matches the underlying layer, so don’t be lazy to take samples.
In places where the site plan rises above the adjacent areas by more than 30-40 cm, it is necessary to backfill with road crushed stone of a fraction of 70-90 cm. It is also used in surface drainage. Crushed stone is dumped immediately after excavation under the formed side. The width of the fill in the lower part must be at least half the height of the crushed stone shaft. On the sides of the site along the slope, crushed stone can be used to immediately form the bottom of drainage trenches.
Supports more than a meter high are covered with geotextiles, which are immediately pressed down with a small layer of clay. After this, imported soil is brought in and distributed throughout the site. The simplest route for laying is starting from the shaft, laid from the point of entry of the equipment to the opposite point, and then into the dump in both directions.
It is not recommended to pour more than 0.7-0.8 meters of clay embankment at a time. If it is necessary to raise more, you should wait for heavy rain or give the embankment time to overwinter. But with the use of compaction and excavator equipment, you can quickly create more impressive dumps.
Is compacting or rolling necessary?
It is optimal if the imported clay is sequentially unloaded completely at the upper level of the dump, and then pushed into unfilled areas with a bucket. This is how high-quality compaction occurs, in which the final shrinkage takes place in one or two wettings.
Tamping is used when there is a need for high speed of work, for example, when the optimal time for filling an embankment is limited by season or weather. With alternate tamping, you can pour 0.6-1.0 layers of pure clay one after another without prior wetting. Let us note once again that only swollen clay is suitable for compaction; dry clay will not acquire water-resistant properties until swelling and subsequent compaction.
Layers of 30-40 cm can be compacted by rolling, but wheeled vehicles are not suitable for these purposes. A crawler excavator is indispensable if the site is being raised to a height of more than a meter; in other cases, it is wiser to resort to manual transportation and leveling, and to entrust compaction to precipitation.
Please note that it is often not necessary to manually grade the site. Due to the movement of surface water, the fresh embankment will eventually take on a natural slope. When there is an abundant supply of water, sometimes it is even necessary to slightly raise the embankment at the bottom of the slope in advance.
If you rush and bring in chernozem before the final compaction of the clay, erosion will quickly have a detrimental effect and the area will greatly lose its fertility. Unfortunately, only plowing the soil in spring and autumn can save you from this phenomenon, and even then only partially.
It is better to pour the chernozem or fertile layer dry and not roll it, preferably manual distribution and leveling of the soil. The equipment must import chernozem in the reverse order from the order in which the clay was poured. The area from the edges to the center is filled. At the end of the backfill, it is also filled.
This is the most labor-intensive stage of raising the site: in addition to the fact that it is necessary to level the soil not only in one plane, but also with uniform compaction, the top bulk layer may not be uniform. Usually, before unloading chernozem, formwork is installed, the foundation is cast and waterproofed, and then covered with crushed stone. Surface support mounds are also installed before the fertile layer is formed.
Protection against erosion, strengthening the embankment on the slope
In addition to backfills and drainage, there are other ways to prevent soil erosion. Of these, the most famous and quite effective is planting plants with a developed root system along the upper and lower boundaries of the planned area, and in the upper part - actively absorbing water.
Shrubs are planted along the slopes of drainage trenches to strengthen their walls. Plants from blackberries and rose hips to reeds are suitable here: they do not create much shade and at the same time pump water out of the soil well. From the highest tier, in addition to birch and willow, you can use low-growing elderberry and sea buckthorn. On steep slopes, it is recommended to strengthen the embankment with geogrids and an underground drainage network.
But with a small difference in soil level, backfilling and protective landscaping will be quite sufficient.
The problem of flooding and increased soil moisture is familiar to owners of plots located in the central region of Russia. Dampness and stagnation of water after snow melts do not allow proper preparation of the summer cottage for the summer season, and waterlogging of the soil with constant precipitation is detrimental to many plants. There are several ways to solve these problems, but the most effective is the arrangement of drainage.
In what cases is a drainage system necessary?
Drainage is a technology for collecting and discharging groundwater, melt and storm water from a site, technical and residential buildings. The drainage system prevents leaching, heaving and waterlogging of the soil, which occurs due to oversaturation with moisture.
Arrangement of a drainage system is not necessary at every site. In order to determine how much your area needs drainage, you will need to conduct a visual inspection. Pay attention to whether the area is flooded after the snow melts, how quickly water is absorbed after watering the plants, whether there are puddles after heavy rain and downpour. If you have observed these signs more than once, then drainage is required.
The drainage system helps remove stagnant water from the site
If visual confirmation is not enough, then you can conduct a simple experiment - using a hand drill or an ordinary shovel, you should dig a hole 70–100 cm deep. It is better to do this in several places on the site. If after 24–36 hours water accumulates at the bottom of the hole and does not leave, then this is direct evidence of oversaturation of the soil with moisture.
Soil drainage is carried out under the following conditions:
- high groundwater table;
- the site is located in an area with clay soil;
- the site is located in a lowland or vice versa - on a slope;
- The location of the site receives a large amount of precipitation.
The presence of drainage helps preserve the finishing and facing materials used for laying garden paths, finishing the basement and façade of the building.
Types of dehumidification systems
There are a great variety of land drainage systems. Moreover, in different sources their classification may differ greatly from each other. In the case of drainage systems for suburban and summer cottages, it is recommended to use the simplest and most proven solutions.
Surface type drainage
Surface drainage is the simplest and most effective system. The main task is to drain the soil by draining water formed as a result of rainfall and uneven melting of snow.
Grids protect the open drainage system from large debris
A surface drainage system is constructed across the area of the site, around the house and adjacent buildings, near garage structures, warehouses and the courtyard. Surface drainage is divided into two subtypes:
- Point - in some sources referred to as local drainage. Used to collect and drain water from a certain place on the site. The main area of application is drainage of areas under drains, near entrance doors and gates, in the area where containers and watering taps are located. Often used as an emergency system if another type of drainage is overloaded.
- Linear - used to drain the entire area. It is a system consisting of receiving trays and channels arranged at a certain angle, ensuring a constant flow of water. The drainage system is equipped with filter grids and sand traps. Trays and drains are made of PVC, polypropylene, HDPE or polymer concrete.
When installing a surface drainage system, it is recommended to combine point and linear drainage. This will ensure the system operates most efficiently. If necessary, point and linear drainage can be combined with the system described below.
Deep drainage
Deep drainage is carried out in the form of a pipeline laid in places where constant drainage of the soil or lowering of the groundwater level is necessary. Drains are laid with a slope in the direction of water flow, which enters a collector, well or reservoir located outside the site.
The process of constructing deep drainage in a suburban area
To lower the groundwater level, pipes are laid along the perimeter of the site to a depth of 80–150 cm. In cases where it is necessary to drain water from the foundation of a building, pipes must be laid below its depth. And also drainage pipes can be laid over the entire area of the site with a certain pitch. The distance between drains depends on the depth of their placement and mechanical composition soil.
For example, when installing a drainage system, when drains are laid to a depth of 0.9–1 m, the recommended distance between them is at least 9–11 m. On loamy soil under the same conditions, the step between drains is reduced to 7–9 m, and on clayey up to 4–5.5 m. More detailed data for different depths can be seen in the table below. Information taken from the book “Draining land for gardens” by A.M. Dumblyauskas.
| Depth of drains, m | Distance between drains, m | ||
| Sandy soil | Loamy soil | Clay soil | |
| 0,45 | 4,5–5,5 | 4–5 | 2–3 |
| 0,6 | 6,5–7,5 | 5–6,5 | 3–4 |
| 0,9 | 9–11 | 7–9 | 4–5,5 |
| 1,2 | 12–15 | 10–12 | 4,5–7 |
| 1,5 | 15,5–18 | 12–15 | 6,5–9 |
| 1,8 | 18–22 | 15–18 | 7–11 |
When laying the pipe, the features of the terrain are observed. According to the technology, drains are laid from the highest to the lowest point on the site. If the area is relatively flat, then to impart a slope, a slope is formed along the bottom of the trench. The minimum slope level is 2 cm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe when constructing drainage in clay and loamy soil. For sandy soil, a slope of 3 cm per 1 m is maintained.
When installing long drainage, a minimum slope along the entire length of the drainage route must be observed. For example, for a drainage system 15 m long, the minimum level difference between the starting and ending points of the route will be at least 30 cm.
If possible, it is recommended to exceed the stated slope standards. This will ensure faster drainage and reduce the risk of silting and drain clogging. In addition, digging a trench with a large slope is much easier than measuring 1–2 cm.
Drainage in a summer cottage - the simplest methods with instructions
In order to independently drain a plot of land using a drainage system, you will need to familiarize yourself with the technology of work, calculate and purchase necessary materials, prepare tools and a place to perform work.
Surface drainage of a summer cottage
Open surface drainage is a universal solution for draining small summer cottages. For example, for typical plots of 6 acres. You can take the diagram below as a basis. It shows a herringbone-shaped drainage route. The distance between the drains, as stated above, is selected based on the type of soil (see table).
An example of the location of the drainage system on summer cottage
To carry out the work you will need a shovel and bayonet shovel, a tape measure, a bubble level, a hammer and a sharp construction knife. The materials you will need to prepare are gravel of fraction 20–40, geotextiles, edged bars or boards 2–3 m long.
To construct surface drainage on a summer cottage, you will need to do the following:
Sometimes, the base of the trench is concreted along the entire length of the drainage route. This allows you not to worry that over time the earthen walls will begin to crumble, water flow will deteriorate, etc. But this approach is more labor-intensive and requires the ability to work with concrete mixture.
Draining the area using deep drainage
Deep drainage is a standard solution for draining suburban and suburban areas. A deep drainage system can be installed even when there is a protective blind area, concrete or slab paths around the building. If necessary, they can be partially dismantled, but the overall structure will not be damaged.
An example of a drainage system project in a suburban area
Work on the construction of deep drainage includes the following:
- According to the design plan of the site, it is necessary to draw up a diagram of the location of drainage pipes and determine the water discharge point, that is, the place from where the collected water will be drained into sewer pipes leading to the drainage well. The depth of the pipeline must be below the freezing level of the soil. For the North-Western region this value is about 60–80 cm.
Preparation of trenches for the construction of deep drainage
- Taking into account the plan, a trench is dug along the perimeter and area of the site with a depth of up to 1 m. The width of the trench is at least 30 cm. All horizontal sections of the trenches are combined into unified system, which is supplied to the water discharge point. After this, trenches are dug maintaining a slope of 2–4 cm per 1 m of surface. To check the quality of the drainage, the trenches are spilled with a large volume of water. If necessary, the slope towards the drainage well increases.
The pit for the drainage well must be dug at the lowest point on the site
- At the lowest point of the site, a place is created for the installation of a water intake or filter drainage well. For large areas located on loamy and clayey soil types, it is better to install storage type wells with a volume of up to 1000 liters. For small areas, you can use both storage and filter wells. The type of tank is selected based on the type of soil.
A wide sheet of geotextile is laid on top of the gravel layer.
- Fine gravel is poured into the bottom of the trench. The thickness of the layer is 10 cm. A geofabric is laid on the gravel with an overlap on the walls of the trench. To fix the canvas to the walls, wooden or plastic pegs are used, which are driven into the ground. After this, a 10 cm layer of crushed stone with a fraction of 50–60 is poured onto the laid geotextile and carefully leveled in compliance with the slope. A drainage pipe from Ø 110 mm is laid on the crushed stone.
- Modular inspection wells are installed at the drain turning points. The diameter and height of the well depend on the expected volume of wastewater. To connect the pipe to the mounting hole, a coupling is used, which is coated with a waterproof sealant before joining. Similar actions are carried out to connect the drainage pipe to the well pipe.
An inspection drainage well is installed in places where the drainage pipe turns
- Before backfilling, the drainage system is checked for functionality. To do this, a large volume of water is drained through drains. If the water quickly drains and enters the well, then everything is done correctly and you can move on to the final stage. In other cases, you need to find and fix the problem.
- A 20–30 cm layer of gravel of fraction 20–40 is poured over the drainage pipes and carefully leveled. After this, the drains with laid crushed stone are covered with geotextiles. A 10–15 cm layer of quarry sand is poured on top of the geofabric and thoroughly compacted. The remaining space in the trench can be filled with fertile soil or regular soil from the site.
Methods for drying an area without drainage
Excessive moisture in the soil and stagnation of water on the site are not always associated with high level groundwater. Sometimes this occurs due to abnormally low temperatures and heavy precipitation. The combination of these factors leads to the fact that moisture does not have time to evaporate, and puddles and mold form on the soil surface.
Sanding clay soil is one of the ways to drain an area without drainage
If, due to some circumstances, it is impossible to install a drainage system, then there are several effective ways to drain the land:
Of the above methods of draining a site, the most effective are adding a sufficient amount of fertile soil and constructing trenches around the perimeter. On average, 1 m 3 of soil will cost 550–600 rubles. For a plot of 6 acres, 10–12 m3 of soil is sufficient.
The easiest way to drain the soil on a site
Construction of shallow trenches filled with crushed stone is the most in a simple way drainage of a summer cottage. Despite its overall simplicity, this method is very effective and can cope with large amounts of water formed during snow melting.
Work on arrangement of trenches around the perimeter and area of the site includes the following:
If desired, the second layer of crushed stone can be reduced, and the remaining space can be covered with soil from the site. This will hide the drainage under a layer of turf. On top drainage trench It is not recommended to plant flowers and herbs. This is fraught with their death due to the high humidity in this place.
How to clear a clogged drain pipe
Failure to comply with the technology for laying drainage pipes is the main reason for stagnation and poor drainage of water from distribution wells. In addition, very often stagnant water is not associated with a blockage at all. Insufficient slope does not ensure constant and uniform drainage of accumulated water towards the drainage pit.
To clear small blockages, use a steel cable or a hose with strong water pressure
The easiest way to unclog drain pipes is to use a steel cable drain cleaner. At one end of the cable there is a spiral-shaped nozzle, at the other there is a handle with which you can rotate the cable, creating a mechanical load at the site of the blockage.
To clean pipes Ø110 mm or more, it is recommended to use a cable with a steel brush of the appropriate size. During the cleaning process, it is necessary to lower the cable into the drainage pipe until its end reaches the blockage. Next, by rotating the cable clockwise, you need to try to break through the blockage or move it towards draining the water. Usually, small accumulations of silt and leaves can be pushed through without much difficulty.
If it was not possible to remove the blockage, then you will need to call specialists who, using a pneumatic installation and other equipment, will not only clear the blockage, but also carry out preventive cleaning of the entire surface of the drainage pipes.
Video: do-it-yourself site drainage
Oversaturation of the soil with moisture and stagnation of water on the site are a big problem, which affects not only the growth of fruit-bearing crops, but also reduces the service life of a residential building. But it is worth remembering that excess water can be dealt with using a drainage system. It is much worse if there is enough fresh water and moisture, and the construction of a well is impossible due to certain circumstances.
It is believed that an artificial pond serves only as a decoration for the site and a place for children to swim, so that they do not get bored when leaving the city. However, a well-equipped pond also helps to humidify the air in the dacha, therefore, it is useful for both people (especially asthmatics) and garden plants.
If you think through and organize everything correctly, then the work, from start to finish, is done without the involvement of specialists, with your own hands. About the specifics of conducting the main technological operations and the proposed article will tell you, which can be considered as step-by-step instructions for building a pond in your country house. Naturally, making certain allowances for local nuances.
It depends little on the desired shape of the reservoir. By the way, there is no standard for it. If the main purpose of the pond is decorative, then it is enough to “turn on” your own imagination to understand how its bowl will fit into the overall landscape of a specific segment of the territory. But the more bizarre its configuration, the more complex the work will be, and the costs of time and money will be more impressive.
Therefore, when arranging a pond, you need to focus on fairly simple shapes - a circle, an oval, a square, giving them some asymmetry so that the pond looks natural.
What to consider when choosing a location for a pond:
- The location of fruit trees and shrubs with a strong root system (for example, barberry). If they are far away, then the choice of options for the design of the bowl is quite large, and the installation itself can be carried out according to a simplified scheme. If there is a risk of its being damaged by roots, you will have to buy either the appropriate plastic “ware” (ready-made container), or engage in concreting, laying out a pit under the pond with stone. And leaves falling into it from nearby plantings will have to be removed constantly.
- Possibility of supplying a water pipe. The shorter the route, the less load on the pump. In addition, the cost of laying the line will be reduced. ASG for the “cushion”, geotextiles, the same pipes and a number of other materials - all this will have to be purchased.
- Drain. The water will have to be renewed periodically. And the more illuminated the place, the more often. Otherwise, duckweed will appear, intensive proliferation of microorganisms and associated odors due to stagnant water. Consequently, you will have to install a drainage “thread”.
- Experts recommend focusing on its area that is acceptable for any dacha. The reservoir should not occupy more than 5% of its territory. Considering that a certain proportion of acres is already occupied for a house, garden buildings- quite rational advice.
- Illumination of this part dacha area. Optimally – no more than 6 hours a day. If there is too much light, the water will quickly turn green, as already mentioned.
Selection of materials
Ready-made industrial container
All this leads to an increase in the cost of work and, in addition, such events are a separate and large topic that requires detailed investigation. Unfortunately, it is quite difficult to fulfill all the plans.
External design of the banks
Some options are shown in the photo. And which one to choose is up to you, dear reader.
Note
There are step-by-step instructions on the Internet that quite colorfully describe how to decorate a pond at your dacha with the help of ornamental vegetation and fish. But for some reason one point is being missed - what to do with all this when cold weather sets in? Before planning just such an “artistic” design of a reservoir at the dacha, it is worth thinking about this very difficult question.
When planning the size of the future pond, if the bowl is mounted from film, you should focus on the parameters of the canvas. Soldering them is not the best solution, since it is unlikely that it will be possible to fasten the strips together without the skills and appropriate equipment. And the risk of leaks is quite high.
The best option is to purchase a waterproofing membrane so that it completely covers the entire pit. Therefore, before planning a pond at your dacha, you need to ask what sizes of PVC products are on sale in this area. locality. This is a better solution than trying to glue (solder) the canvases.
If you are setting up a pond for the first time, a miniature pond is quite enough to start with. Then, with knowledge of the matter, having gained experience in hydraulic engineering work, you can arrange a larger reservoir at your dacha.
On our site there is a pit measuring 6 x 6 m and 1 m deep. Apparently, the previous owners wanted to build something on this site, but never got around to it. We are not planning construction, so we don’t need a foundation pit. Is it possible to put cut trees and shrubs in it and then simply fill it with soil? And what else can be done with this hole?
Natalya Egorova, Zelenograd
It’s rare that a summer resident gets an absolutely perfect land plot. For some it is too dry, for others it is too damp, for others it is too shady or windy. Well, the author of the letter was unlucky with a huge hole. But why no luck? If you approach the matter thoughtfully and creatively, such a disadvantage is not so difficult to turn into an advantage. Or even make it a highlight that all the neighbors and guests of your dacha will look at.
Unfortunately, no details about the exact location, relief, soil and water conditions, features of development and the style of decorative design of the site are presented in the letter. It is only known that it came from the city of Zelenograd, Moscow region. Therefore, I will try to suggest only the most general options for action. I hope that they will be of interest to other summer residents.
Initial data
Zelenograd is located on the territory of the Klinsko-Dmitrovskaya ridge. This area is gently rolling, and the soil consists of glacial deposits under a relatively thin layer of red-brown and brownish loams.
In the Zelenograd area, the most common are soddy-podzolic soils, on which mainly spruce and spruce-small-leaved forests grow. It is likely that the soil on the site does not allow water to pass through well, and it lingers in holes and ditches for a long time. But another option is also possible - sediments quickly sink to depth. Depending on the specific situation on the site, you need to make a decision on what to do with the pit.
Harvest beds
The pit can be turned into a wonderful gardening area. All experts agree that replacing nutritionally poor soil with more fertile soil is the ideal solution for obtaining high yields. And if there are not enough materials for this right away, this can be done in stages!
How to do it?
Coarse plant debris: branches, twigs, foliage are placed at the bottom of the pit. On top they are partially covered with ordinary soil from your site. Then lay out a layer of nutritious organic matter - manure (can be unrotted) or manure mixed with peat. After this, the surface is covered with a 20-30 cm layer of ready-made compost or good garden soil. Thus, the pit will turn into a large “warm bed”, using which you can grow a wide variety of vegetable or berry crops.
Place to rest
If the site, on the contrary, is dry, well-drained and water never stagnates in the pit, you can arrange an excellent recreation area there with a place for a fire or barbecue. It may look like a separate garden, shallowly “recessed” compared to the level of the main plot.
Recreation area. Photo: Andrey Lysikov
How to do it?
To prevent the earth from crumbling, retaining walls made of brick or natural stone are built along the sides of the pit. For ease of access, stairs are built on one or both sides. The bottom of the pit is leveled, covered with a thick layer of crushed stone and sand, and then lined with flagstone or clinker (specially baked brick suitable for paving the street). Both in the pit itself and around it, in accordance with the planned plan, holes are dug, filled with nutritious substrate and ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as perennial and annual flowers, are planted. Garden furniture is placed on the paved surface, and a fire pit is set up there or a barbecue is installed. This cozy corner is sure to become your favorite relaxation spot!
Mysterious Pond
If the area is damp, with high groundwater levels, it is better not to fill the pit at all. On the contrary, in this case it is extremely valuable, since it can perform a drainage function, collecting excess water and reducing the level of “primer”. This leads to another option for using a pit - turning it into a garden pond.
How to do it?
To ensure that the reservoir not only collects water, but also truly decorates your site, the pit is given a beautiful shape, changing the contour of the coastline and depth. A gravel cushion is poured onto the bottom, and large decorative stones are placed if desired. The banks of the resulting pond are planted with spectacular semi-aquatic vegetation (iris calamus, marsh butterfly, loosestrife, moisture-loving grasses, etc.) or decorated with a mesh of coconut fiber. Large containers with aquatic plants, for example, nymphs (water lilies), are placed at the bottom. For their successful wintering, a depth of 70-80 cm will be sufficient.
Lawn. Photo: Andrey Lysikov
Green lawn
And one last thing. An unnecessary pit can simply be filled with imported soil and a lawn or playground can be built in this place. But for this it is advisable to use only mineral substrates (sand, loam), and not plant residues. Organic materials (for example, tree trunks, branches and stumps) poured into the pit will gradually decompose and the surface of the soil in this area of the site will begin to sag, which will entail a lot of work for its subsequent leveling.
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